Author: Museo del Tessuto
Type:
Room: abiti e accessori
Description
<speak>The 1950s paved the way for a productive and aesthetic renewal of Italian fashion. Between 1951 and 1957, the Milan Triennale, a major design exhibition, became the main ground for experimentation in Italy. An emerging sector is that of printed fabric for upholstery, promoted by artisan and small industries. In the cotton district of Busto Arsizio, Luigi Grampa founded, in 1949, the Manifattura <sub alias="Isa">Jsa</sub>, which collaborated with many artists. Among them was Lucio Fontana, author of the famous 'cut' paintings and also author of the fabric displayed in the center. It is a printed cotton satin, called Concetto Spaziale (Spatial Concept), which reproduces the work of the same name, created by Fontana in 1949. The work used in white intel paper, with holes obtained by crossing the surface with an awl. The print on the fabric manages to reproduce the realistic effect of the holes on the canvas. In fashion, the influence of French haute couture continued. Dior, in 1947, launched the famous "Bar Jacket" imitated by small and medium-sized artisans. The suit shown at left is inspired by this model: the jacket marks the waist, the neckline is V-shaped, and the sleeves are banded and reach to the forearm. The skirt, a voluminous longuette, gives the suit an hourglass silhouette.</speak>
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